High Heels & Frijoles

I found a recipe for a “Key lime meringue tart” in a recent issue of Bon Appétit. The photo was gorgeous and the title sounded swank and modern. I’d been craving something citrus-y and custard-y and am crushing on meringues (despite years of gagging at the very sight of them)—it was fate. But, as I stared longingly at the picture and read the title over I recognized something I knew very well—I grew up on “Key lime meringue tart,” knowing it as “pastel de limón,” which technically translates into lemon pie. No swagger or bragging…Our recipe wasn’t ahead of the curve or attempting to reinvent the classic. The fact is, there are no lemons in Nicaragua, just limes and tiny little Key limes known as “limones criollos.”

Though I remember my pastel de limón warmly, it had a few pitfalls. The crust could be soggy, the filling like unnaturally colored Jell-O pudding. If I remember correctly, the filling was more like pudding than curd—milk and cornstarch-based. The recipe I made is a Frankensteined mess of a pie crust I always use, a lime curd that borrows from the Bon Ap, recipe and a Cook’s Country lemon squares recipe. I loved it—you’ll love it. I liked it so much that I made for a dinner party and didn’t even offer my guests an extra piece to take home. Rude little pig. Tsk, tsk.

PASTEL DE LIMON

For the Crust (for an 8-inch diameter tart pan with removable bottom)
200 grams all-purpose flour (1 cup + 6 tablespoons)
3 tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon salt
8 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
1 egg, lightly beaten
Ice water

- Combine the flour, sugar, and salt on a clean, dry work surface. With a bench scraper, cut in the butter in until it resembles wet sand. Alternatively, combine the flour and salt in the bowl of a food processor and add the butter. Pulse until the mixture resembles wet sand.

- Form a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the egg plus 1 tablespoon ice water. If using a food processor, add the egg and water and pulse just until the mixture comes together. If the mixture appears very dry and crumbly, add water, 1 teaspoon at a time, until the mixture is cohesive but not overly wet.

- Bring the dough together with your hands. Pinch off pieces of dough (about 2-inch pieces) and with heel of hand extend on surface. This method, called fraisage, ensures that the butter is evenly distributed in the dough. Shape the dough into a disc and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

- On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough out to about 10 inches in diameter. Gently transfer the dough to the tart pan.  Press the dough into the pan, making sure to fill the ridges. Use kitchen shears or a paring knife to trim off any excess overhang and lightly dock all over with a fork.  Transfer the lined shell to refrigerator and chill 30 minutes, then, freeze for 20 minutes.  Preheat the oven to 375˚F.

- Line the frozen shell with foil or parchment paper (this is not wax paper!) and fill it completely with pie weights or dry beans. Bake until the dough looks opaque, 20 to 25 minutes. Transfer to a cooling rack.

- Reduce the oven temperature to 350˚F.

For the Curd
Pulsing the sugar and the zests adds an extra—well, zest! to the custard. I won’t judge you if you opt to ignore the step, though. Prepare the curd while the tart shell bakes. Save the egg whites for the meringue.

4 large eggs
3 large egg yolks
½ cup sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon lime zest
1 tablespoon lemon zest
1/3 cup lime juice
¼ cup lemon juice
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons heavy cream

-Process the sugar, lime and lemon zests in a food processor until zests are thoroughly broken down.

-Whisk the eggs, egg yolks, sugar, and salt together in a medium saucepan. Add the lime and lemon zests, lime and lemon juices and cook over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until thickened and the consistency of pudding, 8 to 10 minutes. Strain the curd into a medium bowl. Add the butter and cream and stir until completely incorporated.

-Pour the filling into the blind-baked crust and bake about 15 minutes until set. Transfer tart to a cooling rack and cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Transfer to refrigerator and chill completely, at least 2 hours.

For the Meringue
If using a stand mixer, use the whisk attachment.
4 large egg whites, at room temperature
¼ teaspoon salt
2/3 cup sugar
¼ cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

- Place the whites and salt in a clean, dry mixing bowl. Beat the whites on medium speed with an electric mixer until they loosen. Increase the speed to medium-high and whisk until soft peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes. Slowly add the sugar and powdered sugar and continue to whisk until stiff, glossy peaks form, 2 to 3 minutes more. Add the vanilla and whisk to incorporate.

-Top the chilled tart and bake at 450˚F until golden, 6 to 8 minutes. Serve.

My mother and I always baked together (¡TQM, mami!). She used to make an orange Bundt cake very often, and I used to zest the oranges (I wasn’t too thrilled about it, but I guess even at a young age, you have to pay your dues!).  She also made carrot cake and with a generous slather of cream cheese frosting. Sweet, tangy, and silky, I prefer cream cheese to any other frosting. Especially buttercream. I loathe and detest buttercream. I think I can eat a hunk of butter straight off the stick, but there’s something smothering and unctuous about buttercream that gives me the willies.

I got carried away on my buttercream diatribe. I fully meant to say that the following frostings are easy to make and would make a great Mother’s Day treat. How ‘bout something as nice and sweet as she is on her special day? And, if you’re a mom, the cherry and chocolate versions below are a piece of cake to make with a little one who wants to lend a hand or lick a sticky spatula in the kitchen.

All of the following recipes make enough frosting for: One 9- by 13-inch cake / 24 cupcakes / Two 9- by 9-inch or 8- by 8-inch cake squares or rounds. Cake recipe follows at the end of post.

SALTED CARAMEL CREAM CHEESE FROSTING
TIPS: You’ll recognize Maldon salt by its large, flaky crystals. It melts delicately on your tongue and is my favorite for seasoning food once its served. Look for it at specialty stores and/or supermarkets.

Cool the salted caramel before making the frosting—it’ll melt otherwise.

¡Atención! If you read my Red Rum! post you’ll remember my warning: working with hot sugar is muy peligroso. I read a Julia Child recipe last night where she says to cook something until it’s “too hot for your finger.” Melted sugar is always too hot for your fingers.

For the Salted Caramel
¼ cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 teaspoon Maldon salt or Kosher salt, plus additional for sprinkling

For the Frosting
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, softened
2 (8-ounce) packages full-fat Philadelphia cream cheese
1 (1-pound) box confectioners’ sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

- Place the sugar and water in a heavy bottomed, stainless steel, medium saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, gently swirling the saucepan from time to time, until the sugar turns deep amber and begins to smoke (you really will see wisps of smoke), 10 to 12 minutes.

- Immediately remove the saucepan from the burner, and slowly and carefully pour in the the cream. The mixture will sputter quite violently—don’t move the saucepan or stir the mixture. Once the sputtering has subsided, return the saucepan to medium heat, and with a heat-proof rubber spatula, stir it until smooth, about 3 minutes. Cool completely before making the frosting.

- Using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter on medium speed until they’re light and airy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the chocolate, vanilla, and salt, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing bowl with a rubber spatula from time to time.

- Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add the sugar and beat until just incorporated, about 1 minute. Add the salted caramel. Bring the mixer speed up to medium-high and beat until smooth, about 2 minutes. Frost cake and sprinkle with salt.

Chocolate cupcake with cherry cream cheese frosting.

CHERRY CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened
4 ounces butter ( 1 stick or ½ cup), softened
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon salt
1 (16-ounce) box confectioners’ sugar, sifted
¼ cup cherry preserves
3 to 4 drops red food coloring

- Using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter on medium speed until they’re light and airy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the vanilla and salt, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing bowl with a rubber spatula from time to time.

- Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add the sugar and beat until just incorporated, about 1 minute. Add the cherry preserves and food coloring. Bring the mixer speed up to medium-high and beat until smooth, about 2 minutes. Frost cake.

De chocolate.

CHOCOLATE CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

6 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped, melted, and cooled
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, softened
4 ounces butter ( 1 stick or ½ cup), softened
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon salt
1 (16-ounce) box confectioners’ sugar, sifted

To melt the chocolate on the stovetop: Fill a medium saucepan about ¾ full and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low, making sure the water remains at a steady simmer. Place a medium stainless-steel bowl on the saucepan. Place the chocolate in the bowl and stir constantly with a rubber spatula until melted, smooth, and glossy. Remove from the heat and allow the chocolate to cool to room temperature before continuing with the recipe.

To melt the chocolate in the microwave: Place the chocolate in a microwave safe bowl and microwave for 1 to 2 minutes, pausing to stir with a rubber spatula every 30 seconds, until the chocolate is melted, smooth, and glossy. Allow the chocolate to cool to room temperature before continuing with the recipe.

- Using an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese and butter on medium speed until they’re light and airy, about 3 minutes. Beat in the vanilla and salt, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing bowl with a rubber spatula from time to time.

- Reduce the mixer speed to low. Add the sugar and beat until just incorporated, about 1 minute. Bring the mixer speed up to medium-high and beat until smooth, about 2 minutes. Frost cake.

EASY CHOCOLATE CAKE
One 9- by 13-inch cake / 24 cupcakes / Two 9- by 9-inch or 8- by 8-inch cake squares or rounds
This cake is adapted from Food & Wine

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1¾ cup all-purpose flour
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1½ teaspoons baking powder
1½ teaspoons baking soda
1½ teaspoons salt
2 large eggs
1 cup full-fat sour cream
½ cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons boiling water + 2 teaspoons instant espresso powder

- Preheat the oven to 350°F.

- Butter and flour a 9-by-13-inch cake pan or two 12-tin muffin pans—or line with paper cupcake liners and spray with Pam for Baking.
In a large bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

- In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, oil, and vanilla.
Whisk the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients. Whisk in the boiling water and coffee mixture. Pour the batter (it will be thin) into the prepared pan or muffin tins and bake for 30 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

- Cool for 10 minutes, then invert. Cool completely before frosting.

For a recent cooking class, my tutee wanted to make rum cake. I don’t have rum cake in my repertoire, and although there are several fortified Nicaraguan desserts and rum is like mother’s milk to the populace, I couldn’t find one in the infamous Nica Joy of Cooking, Doña Angélica. My mom suggested I use our household orange bundt as a base and replace some of the milk with rum. A sensible suggestion, but I Googled “rum cake” anyway. Boxed yellow cake + rum. Not quite the avenue I’d planned on taking.

But then, an actual recipe claiming to be some well-known rum company’s original TOP SECRET recipe…

I like secrets! And I also like that this recipe had 3 sticks of butter plus 1 cup of heavy cream.

I added a few spices to the recipe and, deciding that ¾ cup rum in the cake was stingy (mother’s milk, remember?), made a buttery-burnt sugar-orange-rum glaze. This cake is incredibly moist and stays that way for about a week.  Love it. Love it. Love it.

RUM CAKE with BUTTERED RUM GLAZE

I recommend a 7 or 12-year-old Flor de Caña (Nicaraguan rum) for this cake. If you can’t get Flor, substitute with dark rum of your liking. For an extra burst of orange flavor, process the sugar and orange zest in a food processor for about 1 minute.

Prepare the glaze while the cake is in the oven. It’s best to use a stainless steel saucepan for this recipe—a dark pan will make it difficult to determine the caramel’s color and progress. Avoid a shallow pan as there will be sputtering.

¡Atención! The base of this glaze is caramel, just like the one  on flan.  Please be careful when working with hot sugar—it’s like liquid napalm and you should never be tempted to stick your finger in the pot to have a taste. Unless you’re looking to erase the friction ridges on your fingertips.

For the Cake
3 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
½ teaspoon ground ginger
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup heavy cream
¾ cup dark rum
1½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1½ cups sugar
1 tablespoon grated orange zest
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 large eggs plus 1 large egg yolk

- Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat it to 350˚F. Butter and flour (or spray with Pam for Baking) a Bundt pan.

- Sift together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, allspice, and salt; set aside. Combine the cream and rum in a liquid measuring cup; set aside.

- With an electric mixer (use the paddle attachment if using standing mixer) on medium speed, beat the butter, sugar, and zest until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add the egg yolk and beat until fully incorporated. Add the whole eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla and reduce speed to low. Add the flour mixture in 3 additions, alternating with the cream-rum mixture, stopping once or twice to scrape the sides and bottom of bowl with a rubber spatula. Mix until smooth, about 1 minute.

- Pour the batter into the prepared Bundt pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean, about 1 hour.

For the Buttered Rum Glaze
½ cup dark rum
½ cup orange juice (use the zested orange from the cake recipe)
1 cup sugar
¼ cup water
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ teaspoon salt

- Combine the rum and orange juice in a liquid measuring cup; set aside.

- Place the sugar and water in a heavy bottomed, stainless steel, medium saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, gently swirling the saucepan from time to time, until the sugar turns deep amber and begins to smoke, 10 to 12 minutes.

- Immediately remove the saucepan from heat, and slowly and carefully pour in the rum-orange juice mixture. The mixture will sputter quite violently—don’t move the saucepan or stir the mixture. Once the sputtering has subsided, return the saucepan to medium heat, and with a heat-proof rubber spatula, stir until smooth, about 3 minutes. Stir in the butter and salt. Reserve ½ cup of the glaze.

- Once the cake is out of the oven, poke it all over with a metal or wooden skewer. Pour the remaining glaze over the cake and allow it to sit in the pan for 20 minutes before turning out onto a cooling rack.  Brush the cake with the reserved glaze and cool completely before serving.

P.S. This is how good this cake is:

I was flipping channels once upon a Saturday morning and landed on a “Baking with Julia” marathon. A gentleman with a Lloyd Christmas-meets-medieval pageboy haircut was making pita bread, and I thought, why not? I’ve never made pita bread.

PITA BREAD
Adapted from an episode of “Baking with Julia” with guests Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid.
Bread baking is time consuming, so clear your calendar before you start.

2 ½ cups warm (about 110˚F) water
1 teaspoon dry yeast
2 ½ cups whole wheat flour
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus additional for greasing bowl
About 6 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

- Preheat oven to 200˚F. As soon as it reaches temperature, shut the oven off. Dough likes to rise in warm places, and this guarantees a cozy resting place.

- Place warm water in large bowl. Sprinkle yeast over water and wait for it to dissolve, about 1 minute. Stir in the whole-wheat flour with a wooden spoon. “Stir 100 times in the same direction,” Alford recommended—this will prevent the gluten strands that begin to form from breaking.

- Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let rest in oven, 30 minutes and up to 8 hours.

- Remove bowl from oven and remove plastic. Stir in salt and oil.  One cup at a time, start stirring in the all-purpose flour. The dough will absorb different amounts of flour, depending on the day (dough is affected by numerous factors, including humidity – I added about 2 ½ cups flour when I made it). The dough will be sticky and shaggy, but will have some body (see photo 1).

- Turn the dough out onto a clean, dry, and well-floured surface. If you’ve never kneaded dough, here are some pointers: With the heel of your hand, push the dough away from you, firmly, as if you were scrubbing clothes the old-fashioned way, on a wooden plank. Fold the far end of the dough towards you, then turn it counter-clockwise, and repeat action.

- Now you’re ready: Begin kneading, adding more flour as necessary, until the dough has “a certain tension,” about 10 minutes (see photo 2). Normally, I would say the finished dough will have a smooth, satiny texture, but the whole wheat flour makes this dough a bit more like coarse leather. It will be tight, like a firm muscle.

- Place dough in a large, well oiled bowl. Lightly coat the dough with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic and place oven. Allow the dough to rise 2 to 3 hours, until it is doubled in size. An old tip: when the dough is ready, you can poke the dough and your finger’s indentation will remain.

- Preheat oven to 400˚F.  If you have a pizza stone, set it on the bottom third the oven. Otherwise, place an inverted rimmed baking sheet in the oven.

- Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface. With a bench scraper, cut the dough in half. Cut each half into 8 pieces (see photos 3 and 4).

- Roll each piece into a ball.  Flatten each ball to about 4 inches in diameter.  Then, with a rolling pin, roll it out to about 7 inches in diameter (see photos 5 through 8).

- Carefully transfer 4 to 6 rounds to the pizza stone or baking sheet.  The pitas will puff after about 3 minutes.  Allow 30 seconds more and remove from oven. Stack pitas together and wrap in a towel to keep warm.

- If you don’t want to use all the dough, save half and refrigerate. Use the next day. Alternatively, use it all, cool the pitas, and store them in plastic Ziploc bags in the freezer. Pop in the toaster or oven when you’re ready to eat them.